What is a decal and where is it used. – Printanika – About paper .net

What to choose

  • If the durability of the design is important to you, and you are ready to choose from a limited set of paints, the hot method is suitable.
  • If accurate color rendering and richness of the palette are more important, and durability is not critical (for example, if the product is decorative), then a cold decal is optimal.

What is a decal

With the increase in the production of tableware, the question arose of finding a method for quickly applying color images that would replace labor-intensive hand painting. This is how decals appeared – a technology for printing on dishes and other glass and ceramic products.

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Choosing a tableware decorating company

Printing images on mugs, glasses and other tableware requires the use of computer image processing, advanced printing equipment and sophisticated high-temperature equipment to secure the decal to the product. But even with all this, without the proper professionalism of those to whom you entrust your order, the final output of a quality product will be low.

After all, it is important to know the entire technology of hot decaling, all the nuances and possible “pitfalls” in this production, as well as practically practice the skills to perfection. That is why we recommend paying attention to who you trust to apply images on dishes or souvenirs.

Be guided when choosing a performing company not only by price, but also by existing reviews of the work already done, competence and promptness in answering your questions, confirmation of workmanship with the provision of samples and level of service.

Another important point: choosing a company that supplies tableware directly from manufacturing plants and applies logos to dishes on its equipment means that you have found those who really care about the quality of their work and provide truly favorable terms of cooperation for our clients.

Hot decal

Hot decaling technology is suitable for decorating or applying a logo to tableware and souvenirs made of glass, ceramics, earthenware or porcelain. The paints used are absolutely safe for daily use of products, and the complex system of printing images, sticking them on the surface and subsequent firing allows us to achieve strength and durability in the operation of finished goods.

The cost of hot decal is not much higher than the cold decal method – and the end result exceeds all expectations:

What is a decal and where is it used. - Printanika - About paper .net
: bright colors do not fade even with repeated use, and the design of the image and each of its lines is quite delicately worked out

• Wear resistance: even when washing dishes with decals with the harshest detergents and rough sponges, the design will not be erased from the surface of the product

• Durability: the applied logo, photo or inscription will serve as faith and truth. It will disappear only in one case – if the dishes break.

When decaling, you can also use natural precious metals in the outline of logos or inscriptions, achieve a matte gloss or noble iridescent shine, imitate the look of laser engraving – with this decaling method, the cost of applying a logo is lower than laser engraving itself. Therefore, today hot decals are ordered much more often than any other type of logo application on tableware.

The technology of applying hot decal consists of three stages:

  1. Print

    — reproduction and application of the selected design or logo using special paints.
  2. Sticker

    — the process of transferring a printed logo or design onto dishes or souvenirs.
  3. Firing
    decals on dishes

    — consolidation of the results of completed stages using high-temperature equipment.

Decal – “hot release” – warping

Error description:

The decor warps during the heating phase during firing or when transferring


1.            Thin lines at the edge of the decor have little stability. The varnish on wax becomes soft and stretches.

2.            The oven is poorly ventilated or is packed too tightly. This creates a very high concentration of wax vapor in the oven atmosphere, which is deposited on the products and dissolves the decor that has not yet been burned.


1.            Underprinting a flux mask for better image stabilization.

2.            Better ventilation, cage vacuum.

Decal – “hot release” – runaway

Error description:

The varnish runs off when transferring


Effect of heat on unsuitable varnish.


Application of suitable varnish, use of finer meshes, for example 49 T.

Decal – “hot release” – chemical corrosion of tampon

Error description:

Chemical corrosion of a tampon with varnish


Interaction of components.


A new varnish with an appropriate formulation can significantly reduce this effect.

Decal – “starry sky”

Error description:

“Starry sky” – paint was not printed on the decal before firing


1.            Too skinny pasta.

2.            Binder is not suitable for this application.

3.            The net is clogged.


4.            The mesh is too fine for the powder.

5.            Non-homogeneous paste.

6.             The paint powder is too wet, the paste curdles and therefore has poor permeability through the mesh.


1.            Add a binder; if the print intensity is low, print in two passes, use coarser meshes and more thixotropic binders.

2.            Request a suitable binder.

3.            Monitor for grid contamination or agglomerates in the paste.

4.            Double check, select a mesh, sift the powder.

5.            Homogenize with a paste grater.

6.            Pre-dry the powder at ~ 110° C.

Decal – decal varnish – blisters

Error description:

 Blistering of the varnish when drying


1.            The varnish layer is too thick.

2.            The varnish is too liquid.


Use more thixotropic varnishes.

Decal – decal varnish – mesh blockage

Error description:

The mesh holes are clogged


Using already used varnish, dissolved and detached particles of the emulsion clog the mesh.


Apply only as much varnish as needed for printing;

Throw away the remainder.

Decal – decal varnish – craters

Error description:

Craters or fisheyes in the varnish layer


1.            Air contamination, for example, silicone captured from the aerosol to improve the setting of the paper by the conveyor.

2.            Remains of solvent after washing the meshes.

3.            Remains of emulsion.

4.            Additives to the binder.

5.            Polluted air in the air conditioning unit.

6.            Insoluble substances in varnish.


1. – 5. Find the cause and eliminate the source.

6.   Recheck the polish or change the product.

Decal – decal varnish – bubbles

Error description:

Bubbling and “stretched threads” effect


1.            The viscosity of the varnish is too high, possibly due to evaporation of the solvent.

2.            Printing speed is too fast.

3.            The varnish dries too quickly.

4.            The room temperature is too low, so the viscosity is increased.


1.            Thickened varnish can be diluted to a limited extent with a solvent. Attention: the paint layer may dissolve.

2.            Reduce the printing speed.

3.            Use a slower-drying varnish.

4.            Set the room temperature to approx. 20°C or use a thinner varnish.

Decal – decal varnish – dissolution

Error description:

Dissolving (blurring) printed ink with varnish


1.            The use of liquid oils (glass), respectively, media with a low solid content, especially with fatty pastes.

2.            Drying of the printed ink was insufficient, especially with greasy paste.

3.              The varnish is printed too thick, so it may go down during drying and partially dissolve the paint.

4.            High solvent concentration in the dryer.


1.            Use more thixotropic oils.

2.            Dry the printed inks well before applying varnish.

3.              Print the varnish thinly, dry it and after drying, print it thicker again or use more thixotropic varnishes.

4.            Remove the solvent from the bottom of the dryer and ventilate it well.

Decal – ink application – modification

Error description:

Change in ink application, according to the intensity of the print during the ink pass


  1. The viscosity of the paste increases due to the evaporation of the solvent.
  2. The viscosity of the paste is reduced due to frequent intermediate cleaning of the mesh with a solvent mixed with the paste.
  3. The fine fraction of the paint is printed, the coarse fraction remains on the mesh.
  4. Wetting the paint powder with a binder, the viscosity of the paste increases, and perhaps the shade of the paste darkens.
  5. Coarsening of the mesh threads.


  1. Dilute the paste with a binder or special thinner.
  2. Dry the mesh well after cleaning, use slow-drying binders that reduce or eliminate this effect.
  3. Use coarser mesh for complete paint passage, intermediate washing.
  4. Make the paste approximately 24 hours before processing.
  5. Apply new meshes.

Decal – paint application – uneven

Error description:

Uneven paint application on the sheet


  1. The squeegee is not parallel to the printing plane, resulting in an uneven print.
  2. The squeegee is not evenly sharpened.
  3. Uneven layer of emulsion.
  4. The net recoil is uneven due to uneven net tension.


  1. Check the squeegee.
  2. Sharpen evenly.
  3. Re-prepare the stencil.
  4. Adjust the tension.

Decal – paint application – too thick

Error description:

Paint applied too tightly


  1. The squeegee angle is too small.
  2. The squeegee edge is dull.
  3. The squeegee rubber is too soft.
  4. There is little binder in the paste.
  5. For cylinder printing machines: the squeegee does not reach the highest point of the cylinder.
  6. The emulsion layer is too thick.


  1. Optimal angle approx. 75°.
  2. Sharpen.
  3. Optimally 65 – 75 shores.
  4. Add binder to paste.
  5. Control and adjustment.
  6. Maintain the optimal emulsion thickness.

Decal – paint application – too thin

Error description:

Ink application too thin, too weak


  1. The squeegee angle is too steep.
  2. The squeegee edge is too sharp.
  3. The squeegee rubber is too hard.
  4. The percentage of binder in the paste is too high.
  5. The mesh is too thin.
  6. The emulsion layer is very thin.


  1. Optimal angle approx. 75°.
  2. Slightly round the edge of the squeegee.
  3. Optimally 65 – 75 shores.
  4. Add powder and homogenize well (with a paster).
  5. Apply a coarser mesh.
  6. Optimize the emulsion layer.

Decal – sheets of decal paper – sticking to mesh

Error description:

After the print, the sheet sticks to the grid


Electrostatic charge due to:

  1. Humidity too low.
  2. The frames are not grounded.
  3. Some media and powders are capable of absorbing electrostatic charges.
  4. The operating room temperature is too low. Therefore, the viscosity of pastes and varnishes increases.


  1. Air-conditioning of the working area.
  2. Grounding the frames, for example, connecting the squeegee and the frame with an internal metal tape or installing an ionizer.
  3. It is possible to use another binder.
  4. Raise the room temperature to 20°C or use less viscous materials.

Decal – sheets of decal paper – gluing

Error description:

Gluing printed sheets on stocks


  1. Not optimal drying (too fast, too high temperature), the varnish dries only from the surface and the remaining solvent diffuses.
  2. The medium/varnish is too slow drying for this dryer.
  3. The varnish is not anti-blocking.


  1. Optimize drying and use release paper.
  2. Use suitable, faster-drying media and varnishes.
  3. Use anti-blocking varnishes.

Decal – edge sharpness

Error description:

There is no sharp edge, the paint smudges


1.            Reticle recoil is too low.

2.            Mesh tension is too low or too high.

3.            The paste is too runny (flows through the mesh).

4.            The squeegee angle is too small.

5.              The squeegee is dull.

6.            The forraquel (humidifier) ​​is dull.

7.            Inappropriate environment, e.g.

8.             Electrostatic charge of the paste, the paper is separated from the mesh with a delay.


1.            Optimize returns.

2.             Control the tension of the mesh, make a new stencil with optimal tension.

3.            Use a more thixotropic oil.

4.            The optimal angle is 75°.

5.            Sharpen the squeegee.

6.            Use a sharpening squeegee.

7.            Use a suitable thixotropic oil.

8.            Ground the printing press, for example, connect the squeegee and frame with an internal metal strip.

Decal – pastes – thick mixing

Error description:

The paste is too thick or “cheesy”


1.            Too wet paint powder (wet storage).

2.            Soaking the powder with a binder.

3.            Solvent evaporation.

4.            “False thixotropy”, the binder was subjected to extreme heat, for example due to weather conditions.

5.             There is little binder in the paste.


1.            Pre-dry the powder at ~ 110°C.

2.            Prepare the paste in advance and, if necessary, adjust the viscosity by adding medium before use.

3.            Adjust the paste with medium or thinner 80 4086.

4.            Stir the medium or paste well and homogenize, the original viscosity will be restored.

5.            Add binder, if necessary, use a more thixotropic medium.

Decal – pastes – liquid mixing

Error description:

Paste flows through the mesh during printing pauses


Medium/paste is too thin for this application.

Recommendations:   Use more thixotropic binders.

Decal – pastes – deposition

Error description:

Sedimentation of paint powder in paste


1.            High powder density.

2.            Too much medium in the paste.

3.            Medium and powder are incompatible.


1./2. Prepare a batch of paste with a smaller amount of oil in advance for storage and dilute it immediately before processing, store the remaining paint with the lid down (ideally in a glass container with a screw-on lid). The use of thixotropic oil reduces this problem.

3.            Try a different oil.

Decal – pastes – drying

Error description:

The paste dries too quickly on the mesh


1.            Too little oil in the pasta.

2.            The oil dries too quickly for this application.


1.            Add oil to the paste.

2.            Use slow-drying oils.

Decal – mesh

Error description:

The net is clogged


1.            Agglomerates in paste.

2.            The mesh is too fine for the powder.

3.            Local pollution.

4.            Errors in making the stencil.

5.            The medium dries too quickly.

6.            The viscosity of the paste is too high.

7.            Coarsening of the mesh threads due to wear.

8.            The paste is prone to curdling, possibly due to the incompatibility of the powder with the binder.

9.             The forraquel is dull.


1.            Intensive homogenization with a paster grinder.

2.            Use of coarser meshes.

3.            Monitor dirt, wash the screens well.

4.            Observe the optimal exposure time, rinse the layer well.

5.            Use slow-drying media.

6.            Add binder to the paste.

7.            Use new grids.

8.            Use another, possibly thixotropic, binder.

9.            Use a pointed forraquel.

Decal – registration – registration control

Error description:

Problematic registration control


Poor contrast on paper for white or light inks.


Add brilliant yellow or red to the paste (approx. 0.02 – 0.04%).

Decal – registration – registration accuracy

Error description:

No alignment accuracy


1.            The recoil is too high, which is why there is a tightening on the net.

2.            Squeegee pressure is too high or too low.

3.            The climate is unstable, the size of the paper floats.

4.            Using paper that is too climate sensitive and changes with small temperature/humidity fluctuations.

5.            Problems when mounting the slide.

6.            The motif is too large for the mesh or the squeegee is too wide.

7.            Mesh tension is too low.


1.            Optimize returns.

2.            Optimize the squeegee pressure.

3.            Air-condition the room.

4.            Change the paper quality.

5.            Check the installation of the transparencies.

6.            Maintain a minimum distance to the edge of the frame. Optimally 10 – 15 cm from the printed surface to the edge of the frame.

7.            The use of high-modulus sieve fabric allows you to increase the tension to 26 n/cm. At the same time, the sagging of the mesh is significantly reduced. (Attention: the frames must be adequately stable!).

Decal – color stability – change in paste color

Error description:

The color of the paste changes after a few days


  1. Soaking the powder with a binder.
  2. For purples and silver-containing cobalt paints, a chemical reaction may occur, but without affecting the firing result.


  1. With increased viscosity – additional dilution of the medium.
  2. Control during test firing of the decal and measurement of the thickness of the paint layer.

Decal – color stability – purple paint color change

Error description:


Decal for fusing: master class | crafts fair magazine

This master class is intended for glass and experiment lovers like me.

It is highly specialized, but may just be of interest to the curious.

I foresee a question – where can I get decals? The answer is to buy in online stores. I’ve been buying them for a long time, I’ve used them for everything, and in the master class I summarize my experience in Russian (unlike the American instructions).

Here is the whole simple process:

Деколь для фьюзинга мастер-класс, фото № 1

1. directly decal. It comes in color, black, sepia and gold

2. glass shards of different sizes (let’s create waste-free production! 🙂

3. tools – glass cutter, wire cutters, tweezers

4. scissors (preferably manicure)

5. glue moment Crystal

6. clean water in a small container

7. You can decorate it with millifiori.

2. Use your knowledge of English
(in my case, extremely shallow:) We make up phrases and cut out the words with scissors. Where there were not enough words, letters were cut out. I found it life-affirming. Деколь для фьюзинга мастер-класс, фото № 2

3. Soak
decals in water for 5 seconds, more is possible – it’s not critical. They come off from the base, like children’s translations… (ah. As a child, my entire closet was covered with translations…… yes, it was probably like that for everyone 🙂

Деколь для фьюзинга мастер-класс, фото № 3

4. Take out
decals with tweezers or your finger.

Деколь для фьюзинга мастер-класс, фото № 4

5. Smooth
m to the fragment that you like with a napkin – carefully expelling the air from under the decal. Деколь для фьюзинга мастер-класс, фото № 5

6. It turned out like this:

Деколь для фьюзинга мастер-класс, фото № 6

7. …and then – as your imagination dictates!
I wanted to make a magnet – a multi-colored, simple flower. On the back side of the fragment with the decal, multi-colored pieces are glued using “moment” glue.

Деколь для фьюзинга мастер-класс, фото № 7

And a little millefiori – it’s like the icing on a cupcake; before baking, the magnets look like this:

Деколь для фьюзинга мастер-класс, фото № 8

. The use of decals does not require a special temperature regime (derived experimentally).

Magnets after sintering:

Деколь для фьюзинга мастер-класс, фото № 9

In exactly the same way, but using gold powder between the layers, the following pendants were made:

Деколь для фьюзинга мастер-класс, фото № 10

Деколь для фьюзинга мастер-класс, фото № 11

That’s it!

…. and finally – on the subject of my life-affirming magnets – be happy, even if your place is between the colors, this is the best place under the sun

Деколь для фьюзинга мастер-класс, фото № 12

I will be happy to answer your questions! and thanks for watching!

Decal paper for inkjet (laser) printers (transparent)

Instructions for use:

The picture is printed, then cut out with scissors and placed in water at room temperature.

After 10-12 seconds, the picture separates from the substrate and floats up.

It is on a very thin but very durable film.

The film is placed on ANY grease-free surface – wood, porcelain, metal, soap or candles… If the picture is printed on a laser printer, then the process described above occurs. If on inkjet, then before immersing it in water it must be “sprayed” with any transparent varnish so that the ink does not dissolve in the water.

The glue is activated in water and with natural drying for 20-30 minutes the picture “tightly” adheres to the surface. To speed up the process, you can use a hairdryer or bake it in the microwave.

If the decal is applied to soap, then with constant use the picture does not wash off, but a “step” remains under it, exactly repeating its contours and the soap can be used until a tiny piece of soap is removed.

If desired, of course, the picture can be removed with a fingernail, but it does not erase or slide off.

And one more thing: the image can be printed for white soap and candles on transparent film, and for surfaces of a different color on white opaque matte film.

Application of decal paper:

Apply images to ceramics, glass, stones, metals, bamboo, plastic, marble, wood and even candles, flowers and soap. Simple application technology allows you to do this even at home using a printer, hair dryer and microwave.

A wide range of applications and simple technology open up new opportunities in the field of souvenir products. Now you don’t need to order expensive image products for your business. You can do everything yourself! For any celebration you can surprise and delight your loved ones, friends, colleagues and clients.

Decal paper, which our company is pleased to offer you, is intended for decorating high-quality ceramics and glass, permanent decal decoration of sports equipment, household appliances and countless other items.


Decal paper is especially susceptible to humidity: a high level can affect the technological characteristics of the material, therefore particularly high requirements are placed on product storage.

Storage method: in a dry, heated or ventilated place.

Decal paper for inkjet printers in Moscow: 686 items: free shipping, 28% discount [go]

Popular products in stock! In the category: Decal paper for inkjet printers – buy at a good price, delivery: Moscow, discounts!

How to make a decal

The imprinting process is reminiscent of applying decals. First, the desired image is printed on paper with a sticky gummed layer. The paper is then applied to the surface and the image is transferred onto it. In large productions this process is automated, so the output is a large batch of beautiful dishes with the same designs.

How to distinguish a decal from a hand-painted one

Dishes painted by a master are several times more expensive than factory-decorated ones. Therefore, it’s a shame to accidentally buy an ordinary mass-produced product under the guise of an author’s exclusive. Some tips for those who want to learn to understand the intricacies of designs on sets and glasses:

  1. Your main ally is a magnifying glass or macro photography on a smartphone or camera. Upon closer examination, you will see either brush strokes (handmade) or tiny dots of paint at the same distance from each other. This is the decal.
  2. A more complicated version is a decal with drawing. Several strokes are applied over the stamped image under the guise of painstaking handwork. The results of such tricks are also noticeable when zoomed in. Individual strokes will rise above the smooth surface. The more inexperienced the artist, the thicker the strokes. Real painting virtuosos use a minimum amount of paint on their brushes and work subtly.
  3. If you have a service or a large batch of goods in front of you, compare several products. If it is handmade, you will gradually start to notice slight variations in the pattern. And vice versa – products that are 100% similar and indistinguishable from each other have clearly been in a decal firing oven.

Print Settings:

Paper type Transparent / Foil
White Toner Darkness: 3

Printer settings:

• Image type: Direct.
• Recommended for laser printers, with driver settings specified
in the application.

Our new product is decal paper!! | crafts fair magazine

Introducing decal paper!

Russian manufacturer of German materials!

Special paper with a gummed layer for decals has different names: decal paper, gummed paper, decal paper, decal paper, the essence is that this paper has a special layer on which the image is applied and can later be used transfer to any surface. The only difference is what layer you apply to the image itself. This can be a topcoat varnish that is used for “hot” decals. This decal can be transferred to glass and ceramics, while the image itself is applied with a brush or through a stencil using firing paints (glass or ceramic).
For “cold” decals, for example, a transparent topcoat varnish is used; such a picture can be transferred to wood or plastic, the varnish will protect against mechanical stress; for transfer tattoos, a special glue that is safe for human skin is used.
“Hot” decal is much more resistant and durable in contrast to “cold” decal.
The production of hot decals occurs in several stages: an image is applied to the paper using firing paints, a topcoat varnish is applied over the image, dried, before transferring the decal to the surface of the product, it is soaked in water for several minutes, when the gummed layer gets wet, the decal is applied to the product with the image facing up and The paper backing is gradually removed so that there are no air bubbles left under the image, the product is dried and sent to a high-temperature firing oven, the varnish burns out and the paint bakes into the surface layer of the product.
Decal printing methods are silk screen and offset printing.
“Hot” decal is used to transfer images to mugs, glasses, bottles, ashtrays, plates, any tableware, etc.

Paper for printing cold decals on a laser printer with a transparent base.
Suitable for printing decals on any hard surface. Paper with a layer of varnish.

Tips for Printing Transfers Using Decal Paper

Paper for printing cold decals on a laser printer with a transparent base.
Suitable for printing decals on any hard surface.
It is not recommended to print on paper with a varnish layer if the printer is very hot (details below).
The paper is suitable for making decals on plastic, glass, ceramics, metal,
wood, paper, candles, covers for books and diaries, household appliances, sports equipment (helmets, skis), fishing rods, etc.

1. Check your printer settings to make sure the correct paper type is selected.
Printer settings: Print quality high or “label”, paper thickness maximum
or from 170-220g/sq.m. Print the picture on a laser printer.
2. Cut out the image with scissors along the outline of the image.
3. Place the decal in warm water
4. After a few seconds, when the picture begins to peel off from the paper, remove
decal (with backing) and transfer it from the sheet to the surface to be decorated.
Gently wipe the decal with a squeegee or soft paper.
5. Dry at room temperature.
The product is ready!

ATTENTION, important information!

To avoid damaging the printer drum, it is not recommended to print more than one sheet at a time!
Before you start printing, make sure that the printer has not been used for more than 15 minutes.
It is advisable that it be turned off before printing.
And his printing drum has already cooled down.
Turn on the printer. Print one sheet. Then turn off the printer and let the drum cool down again.
After this, you can turn on the printer again and print the next sheet.
If you print repeatedly, the varnish layer of the paper may stick to the hot drum and damage it! Do not use this paper for high temperature printers (such as SAMSUNG). This can lead to breakdown of expensive equipment.
Please strictly follow these guidelines. This will ensure high-quality results and reliable operation of your printer.

Transfer to ceramics and glass (decoration method)

1. Print the image straight on the glossy (working) side
(non-mirror) display.
2. Immerse the transfer in warm water for 30 seconds.
3. Remove the soaked transfer and place it, along with the backing, on
product to be transferred to
4. Using a soft cloth, dampen the surface to be applied
5. Use your thumbs to gently slide the image off the backing
6. Let the picture dry for 3 hours. Then bake the picture in the oven
at 140°C for 10 minutes (this will give the image the highest
resistance to external influences)

Decal technique from the company “pro-printing”

For those who are looking for the optimal price-quality-time ratio, decal technology is the best choice. There are still a lot of nuances, and at the PRO-Pechat company you can get more information about decaling techniques, prices for work and place an order for an original souvenir with an inscription, a gift for friends with a photo, applying a logo to various products, etc. Contact us!

Photoceramics and digital decal technologies

so this is paper immediately with varnish, it’s just that there are problems with firing, I talked with the manufacturer, but it has the right to life

Can you be more specific about the problems with firing, otherwise we end up with all sorts of obscenities, cracks in the image, traces of water and toner burnout. I called the sellers and they told me about long drying and a slow increase in temperature to 430. but the ovals had been lying around for a day, and after drying in the oven for 80
degrees for 3.5 hours, the problem did not change, someone tell me how to do it normally

Technology for applying hot and cold decals

Hot decal is a printing method followed by firing. Under the influence of high temperature, the pigment is fused into the surface, and this image is highly durable. Dishes with hot decals can be washed, including in the dishwasher, and the patterns on them will not be erased or faded. However, due to thermal exposure, some paints change shade, so the color palette of hot decals is limited.

Transfer to candles, plastic:

1. Print the image on a CMYW printer as a mirror image on paper A.
2. Place Waterslide Paper on the bottom plate of the heat press and place Paper A
on top of it.
(printed side down).
3. Close the press at 180°C for 15-20 sec. At medium pressure. Peel off the paper
Waterslide from A-Paper after completely cooled.
4. Cut the paper along the outline of the picture as accurately as possible.
5. Immerse the paper for 30 seconds. in water. The edges of the paper will curl up slightly.
6. Using your thumbs, gently move the image on the backing and remove it.
7. Place the image on the product selected for transfer.
8. Smooth out the image with your fingers or a piece of plastic,
to remove air bubbles.
9. To improve the result, it is recommended to erase the water with the image before the next one
drying within 3 hours.

Improved technology with heat resistant coating

The famous FOREVER Waterslide transfer paper for printing on high-temperature sensitive materials and uneven surfaces (candles, layouts, ceramics) is now suitable for printing devices with high image fixing temperatures!

This is a state-of-the-art heat-resistant paper that can be used with the fastest printing presses.

FOREVER have developed a more advanced and heat resistant product, and now it can be used with the fastest printing machines.

FOREVER have improved the standard cold decal paper by adding an additional heat-resistant HT coating. This not only removes a number of limitations of the old Waterslide technology, but also expands the range of laser and LED printers compatible with the new Waterslide HT transfer paper.

All these changes have allowed FOREVER to present a reliable product of the highest quality.