Sandpaper: types of grit – how to sand correctly

How to select sanding paper grit

Specialists from the technological department of the Belgorod Abrasive Department have developed recommendations for selecting grinding tools, depending on what material needs to be processed and what operation is being performed. Recommendations can be found in Table 2.

Table 2.

Operation to be performed Grit Tool
Processing of MDF boards, chipboards
calibration Р30, Р36, Р40, Р50 endless tapes
intermediate grinding Р50, Р60, Р80 endless ribbons
final sanding Р100, Р120, Р150 endless ribbons
Processing of furniture parts and doors from MDF
pre-sanding before priming Р80, Р100, Р120 self-fixing products
sanding after priming Р150, Р180, Р220, Р240 self-fixing products
sanding after painting Р320, Р400 self-fixing products
Processing of gypsum fiber and gypsum particle board
grinding Р24, Р30, Р36, Р40, Р60, Р80, Р100 endless tapes
Processing of furniture panels and furniture parts
calibration Р36, Р40, Р60, Р80 endless tapes
intermediate grinding Р100, Р120 endless tapes
fine grinding Р150, Р180, Р220 endless tapes
Processing of parquet boards
calibration Р80 endless tapes
intermediate grinding Р120 endless tapes
fine grinding Р150, Р180, Р220 endless tapes
Processing of rolled steel sheets
rough grinding, descaling Р24, Р30, Р36, Р40, Р50, Р60 endless tapes
intermediate grinding Р80, Р100, Р120 endless tapes
fine grinding Р150, Р180, Р220, Р240 endless tapes
polishing Р320, Р360, Р400, Р500, Р600, Р800, Р1000, Р1200 endless tapes
Stainless steel pipe processing
cleaning the weld seam Р40, Р60, Р80, Р100, Р120 endless tapes
pre-grinding, matting Р150, Р180, Р220, Р240 endless tapes
grinding P280, P320, P360, P400 endless tapes
fine grinding/polishing Р500, Р600, Р800, Р1000, Р1200 endless tapes
Carbon steel pipe processing
removal of scale, rust Р40, Р60, Р80 endless tapes
fine grinding Р100, Р120, Р150, Р180 endless tapes
Wire processing
grinding Р40, Р60, Р80, Р100, Р120, Р150 endless tapes
Processing of medical instruments, cutlery
rough grinding, deburring Р60, Р80, Р100 endless tapes
fine grinding Р100, Р120, Р150, Р180 endless tapes
Machining of radiators and aluminum parts
rough grinding, deburring Р40, Р60 endless tapes
fine grinding Р80, Р100 endless tapes
General metalworking
rough grinding Р36, Р40, Р60 flap wheels, self-fixing grinding discs
intermediate grinding Р80, Р100, Р120 flap wheels, self-fastening grinding discs
fine grinding Р150, Р180, Р220 flap wheels, self-fastening grinding discs
polishing Р240, Р320, Р360, Р400, Р500, Р600, Р800 flap wheels, self-fixing grinding discs
Paintwork treatment
preparing metal for coating

removal of old coating, rough leveling of putty

Р40, Р60, Р80 self-fastening sanding sheets and discs
grinding rough scratches and scratches on the surface of the prepared material;

pre-grinding, putties

Р100, Р120 self-fastening sanding sheets and discs
smoothing out marks from the previous abrasive, completing leveling;

preparation for applying filling primer;

Р120, Р150, Р180 self-fastening sanding sheets and discs
final sanding of putty Р180 self-fastening sanding sheets and discs
surface preparation for priming Р220, Р240, Р320 self-fastening sanding sheets and discs
rough ground grinding Р400 self-fastening sanding sheets and discs
final ground grinding Р600, Р800 self-fastening sanding sheets and discs
sanding primer when painting in dark colors Р1000 self-fastening sanding sheets and discs
sanding after painting, removing paintwork defects Р1000, Р1200, Р1500 self-fastening sanding sheets and discs
sanding paintwork after P1500 or immediately after painting Р2000, Р2500 self-fastening sanding sheets and discs

https://www.youtube.com/watch; v=oiASFfsijEk

Table 2 shows the most common uses for sandpaper?

Flexible grinding tools are actively used in more than 50 segments. In addition to wood and metal, the materials processed can be stone, rubber, leather, glass, and plastic.

When selecting a tool, you can independently refer to our recommended tables, or contact the sales department specialists of BAZ OJSC and receive detailed information on the products.

Recommended articles:

Composition and scope of application of sanding paper.

Grinding grain: types, properties and applications.

How to properly sand with sandpaper?

The most important thing to remember about the proper sanding process is: 

• you need to start with coarse-grained sandpaper and end with fine-grained sandpaper;

• after sanding, be sure to brush off the resulting dust or wipe the product with a damp cloth.

1. Surface preparation.

To select sandpaper for sanding a wooden surface that you plan to prepare for work and make it smooth for applying subsequent decor, you need to evaluate the quality of the workpiece with which you will work. Sometimes it happens that a wooden workpiece is initially very good and smooth, then the sanding process can either be skipped or lightly sanded with very fine sandpaper, more for decency than out of necessity 🙂

If the wood is bad, with unevenness, chips, scratches or knots, we adhere to the above rule: first level the surface with coarse sandpaper (P70 – P120), then move on to fine sandpaper (P150 – P220). Sometimes coarse paper causes very severe scratches, and many beginners find this intimidating, but don’t worry—subsequent sanding with fine paper will remove them.

Sometimes, when you have to work with smooth and sliding surfaces (for example, doing decoupage on metal or plastic), for better adhesion of the materials, it is recommended to lightly walk with fine-grained paper over the surface. But here the situation is different, it is important not to make it smooth, but rather to add scratches so that further layers of primer and paint will better adhere to the slippery surface.

2. Interlayer sanding of primer and paint.

Interlayer sanding of the surface is, in principle, not necessary, but many do it, as it allows the product to remain smooth and even throughout the entire work process, and to remove marks from a brush or sponge.

P220 – P360 paper is suitable for interlayer sanding of primer or paint. In interlayer sanding, it is very important that all previous layers are thoroughly dried (otherwise the “sandpaper” will easily carry away the wet paint, or tear the decoupage napkin. If you use a hair dryer to dry the materials, it is important to let the product cool completely after heating!

Please note that sandpaper from some manufacturers can paint the product in the color of its base!

3. Final interlayer sanding during the varnishing process.

This is the most important step. For coarse sandpaper, it is best to use P360 – P400 paper. This grain size is best for removing varnish streaks and giving the surface a final evenness.

We use P400 – P800 paper as fine-grain paper. Do not be alarmed by the whitish coating that appears after sanding – the next layer of varnish that falls on the sanded surface will remove it.

There is no need to sand the final layer of finishing varnish. But it can be polished with a felt or felt wheel.

Good luck in your creativity!

Author – Chingiz Abashev.

Marking the skin according to the state standard

The second marking indicates all the data about the sandpaper

. It can be printed with paint or placed on the product label. Let me give you an example: L2E600×40P125A25-L1MA GOST No. 13344/79. I’ll decipher:

  1. The first letter L means that the sandpaper is sheet sandpaper. Roll material is not designated in any way.
  2. Number 2 indicates the type of paper. In our case, it is intended for metal grinding. The number 1 would mean that the skin is used for processing materials with low hardness.
  3. The letter E indicates that the abrasive was applied electrostatically. The letter M would mean mechanical method.
  4. 600×40 – these are the dimensions of the sheet, its width and length in millimeters. For rolled skins, its width is indicated in millimeters and its length in meters.
  5. Alphanumeric group L1 speaks about the basis of the material. In our case, it is moisture-resistant paper.
  6. Marking P2 is a base made of 0-200 paper.
  7. Moisture-resistant paper is designated M, L1 and L2.
  8. Paper not resistant to water is marked P1 and P11.
  9. Twill fabric base is designated S2G, S1G, S1, U2G, U1G, U2 and U1.
  10. Half-thread fabric is marked with the letter P.
  11. Alphanumeric group 25A indicates the type and brand of abrasive. In our case, it is white electrocorundum. It can also be designated as 24A.
  12. Marking 15A indicates normal electrocorundum.
  13. 45A and 43A – mono corundum.
  14. 55С, 54С and 53С – black carborundum.
  15. 62С, 63С and 62С – green silicon carbide.
  16. 81Kr – flint.
  17. 71St indicates glass abrasive.
  1. The number 25 indicates the diameter of the grains of the main fraction of the abrasive in micrometers.

Fine-grained skin is marked in this part with an alphanumeric group from M3 to M63.

  1. -H indicates the content of the main abrasive fraction. In our case, it is 55 percent.
  2. The letter B will indicate 60%.
  3. Letter D – by 41%.
  4. Letter N – by 45%.
  5. The next letter indicates what composition the abrasive material is glued with. In my example, this is M. This means that hide glue was used.
  6. The letter C will indicate a synthetic composition.
  7. K means a combined mixture of hide and synthetic glue.
  8. YAN-15 indicates amber varnish.
  9. SFK stands for phenol-formaldehyde resin.
  10. The last letter shows the wear resistance class of the skin in relation to the presence of defects. In my example, this is class A – less than 0.5% of the defective surface of the material.
  11. The letter B means less than 2%.
  12. Letter B indicates less than 3% defects on paper.
  13. GOST No. 13344/79 indicates the standard by which the material is made. It produces moisture-resistant sandpaper. The material, which is not resistant to water, is produced in accordance with GOST No. 6456/82.

Sandpaper – types, classification, marking

It often happens that a small and seemingly insignificant thing turns out to be truly irreplaceable, and it is easier to name those areas where its use is not required than to list the opposite. Sandpaper falls into the category of such necessary things, in this article master

plumber

will tell you more about it.

Classification

The principle of sandpaper processing is based on the effect of its abrasive particles on the surface through friction. Abrasives are glued to a base: textile or paper. A paper base is an inexpensive solution. Nulevka and other grains of small fractions are applied precisely to such a base. To produce sandpaper, paper of different densities is used: the larger the grain, the denser the base should be.

The fabric base is more durable and can also be used for wet sanding (waterproof). The following types of fabrics are in demand in the production of emery:

  • Polyester – have a dense base, but stretch slightly when threaded into the grinder; Compared to cotton, more wear-resistant.
  • Synthetic – capable of withstanding heavy loads, which allows them to be used in industry, mainly as sandpaper for machines in furniture production.
  • Cotton – have high elasticity, but are inferior in strength to previous types.

Grit

Sandpaper numbers (grit) are a specific indicator characterizing the number of abrasive particles per square inch. In accordance with this, the skin is usually divided into:

  • Coarse-grained for cleaning surfaces from old coatings (varnish, paint) and initial processing. The abrasive in it is coarse and of a large fraction, together with the removal of the top layer, it leaves grooves and scratches on the material, therefore, further processing will be required. Thus, the coarsest-grained sandpaper is most often used when there is a need not to smooth, but rather to grind off the top layer (for example, on wood to give the desired shape to the workpiece). Numbers 12-80;
  • Medium-grained is required at intermediate stages of grinding and is suitable just for leveling the surfaces of their cleaning, and so on, so that the multi-layer processing is smooth and of high quality. It, of course, smoothes and levels the surface, but still leaves behind traces, although not as obvious as specimens with large grains. Numbers 80-160;
  • Fine-grain removes defects from previous polishing, making the surface ready for final processing (for example, applying paint). This also includes zero grade sandpaper. Numbers 160-4000.

To summarize, we note that the procedure for working with various materials is the same in all cases. They start by using sandpaper with very coarse particles. This includes wood processing, removal of old paints and varnishes, and removal of rust on metal products. Gradually, the transition is made to paper with a finer abrasive, and final polishing is performed.

Type of abrasive

Gradation is also carried out according to the type of abrasive substances included in its composition. The following can be used as abrasives:

  • Carborundum is the most common abrasive. It is well suited for working with plastic, metal, and fiberglass surfaces.
  • Aluminum oxide is a higher quality and more durable material, but products based on it, all other things being equal, are more expensive.
  • Garnet is a natural abrasive ideal for wood. This paper is soft and seals wood fibers well, allowing paint and varnishes to apply more evenly to the wood.
  • Diamond sandpaper is the most durable and wear-resistant. Due to its high cost, it is used mainly in industry and professional activities.
  • Ceramics – these are used to make rough types. It has proven itself excellent in leveling wood and in metal processing.
  • Alloyed electrocorundum – has titanium additives, which provides it with excellent strength. This type of grinding is recommended for surfaces that are difficult to machine.

Release forms

As for the release form, two main types can be noted: sheet and sandpaper in rolls. But besides them, other various configurations are also produced:

  • Fiber sandpaper. It is a non-woven material made of mesh impregnated with abrasive materials, fixed to the base using special resins. It is needed for matting surfaces. The elastic base allows you to achieve the desired effect even in hard-to-reach places. In this way, an optimal basis for subsequent priming or painting is achieved.
  • The abrasive mesh is a patented material for dust-free sanding. The structure of this material is a polyester mesh with fixed abrasive grain. This mesh structure ensures excellent dust removal through the entire surface of the abrasive material, which does not clog and is protected from the formation of lumps. The strength of the mesh guarantees its long service life, which results in less consumption of grinding equipment.
  • Abrasive wheels. Micro-fine polishing varieties, thanks to the use of advanced technologies, make it possible to smooth out minor defects in the paintwork. They are used in conjunction with substrates that provide a tight fit to surfaces with complex contours (for example, on cars). Quick removal of small scratches significantly reduces processing time, making it more uniform and of higher quality. Cleaning specimens have a strong cutting edge and have an aggressive abrasive structure. They are designed to heat up less and not become greasy. Unlike wire brushes, they last much longer. Designed for cleaning metal surfaces.
  • Strip abrasive paper has high cutting ability and long service life. Can be produced with special technological holes for dust removal.
  • Waterproof sandpaper is needed for initial or final wet processing of various surfaces.
  • Rolled skin. Produced on different bases for a wide variety of applications and with different technical characteristics, suitable even for highly specialized work (for example, in the production or repair of shoes).
  • The foam-based sandpaper has an anti-clogging treatment and is not intended for wet sanding. It is used for processing primed and varnished coatings, finishing contours and edges. Suitable for both profile and flat surfaces, because the foam promotes uniform distribution of the abrasive when pressed. The same condition guarantees no slippage.
  • Sandpaper for grinding machines. Available in certain sizes with an adhesive backing, making it easy to attach and quickly change.
  • Abrasive sponges are needed for processing surfaces with complex textures, for shaping, and grinding edges. Well suited for hand polishing in hard-to-reach areas. They are used to prepare the surface for painting. Available in various abrasive grain sizes from ultra and super fine to medium.
  • Abrasive flowers are used to remove small defects. The unusual shape is aimed at ensuring that there are no risks during work. Can be used on both new and repainted surfaces.
  • Sanding belts, due to their design features, are threaded into machines or sanding machines.

Sandpaper – marking

Marking is an alphanumeric code that contains all information about the product. It stands for:

  • 1 letter indicates the material of the abrasive particles: K – corundum, C – carborundum, G – zirconium electrocorundum, S – ceramics, V – aluminum oxide, A – alloyed electrocorundum.
  • 2nd letter – base material: K – cotton, X – polyester, Y – synthetic fabric, J – elastic cotton fabric, JJ and F – high-strength cotton fabric, P – paper-based.
  • The number following the letters indicates which glue is used to attach the abrasive particles to the base: 1 – two layers of bakelite resin, 2 – single-layer application of glue, 3 – two-layer coating of glue and resin, 4 – varnish, 5 – resin.
  • Method of application: 1 – open, 3 – stearate, 4 – closed.
  • Properties of the base: display the density of the paper (in Latin letters from A to G) or the flexibility of the fabric (flexible – J, very flexible – F, especially flexible – E, T – rigid-flexible, U – polystyrene segment tapes, X – hard).
  • Grain (for explanation see table below).

Sanding with sandpaper

It has already been noted that the described material is required in many fields of activity:

  • Construction and finishing: processing putty surfaces in order to level them and get rid of small grooves from a spatula or sagging, stripping various materials (metal, wood, PVC) from old coating;
  • Car repair: performing various types of body work (removing traces of corrosion, treating the base before puttying and its subsequent leveling, sanding before painting, applying varnish, matting the surface before priming and other types of work);
  • Woodworking: sanding wood, obtaining a uniform surface, work on processing water-based paints and varnishes;
  • Painting work: treating bases before and after applying paint, smoothing out smudges;
  • Furniture repair and production.

Different paper numbers are used for different jobs. In this case, for wood it is better to use sandpaper with an open application method. Such a skin will not clog, which means it will not have to be changed often. But emery for a car must have a closed method of applying abrasives. In addition, metal processing will require harsher abrasives: it is best to use titanium, alloy, ceramic or zirconium electrocorundum. Sanding sandpaper for glass and stone must be waterproof, since it is recommended to process these surfaces with water.

Video

In the story – What types of sandpaper exist and what is the difference between sandpaper on a fabric basis and sandpaper on a paper or combined basis

In the story – Considered abrasive materials used in the manufacture of sandpaper

In the story – The structure of sandpaper is examined in detail
and their properties

In the story – How sandpaper is made

Continuing the topic, also check out our review How to clean safety glasses from scratches

Source

https://santekhnik-moskva.blogspot.com/2021/03/Nazhdachnaya-bumaga.html

Selecting sandpaper

What is the best way to sand wood? Which sandpapers should you choose for your work? In reality, these are not such simple questions. Sandpaper today is made from different materials:

  • garnet (very rare);
  • silicon carbide;
  • ceramics;
  • electrocorundum and others.

Garnet is characterized by the fact that it grinds down faster than all other materials, but carefully sands wood. And silicon carbide, according to experts, is perfect for sanding the varnish coating and removing particles of debris and dust stuck to it.

Ceramic sandpaper is usually used when sanding wood with sanders. Skins with a ceramic working surface are one of the hardest and most expensive abrasives. Much the same can be said about corundum.

But the most important classification of sandpaper is the classification by grain size. At the moment, there are coarse-grained, medium-grained and fine-grained sandpapers.

In the Russian Federation, the marking of sanding products complies with the ISO-6344 standard – the grain size is indicated by the letter “P” and a number. The larger this number (it shows the exact number of sieve wires in one inch), the smaller the grain size. And, accordingly, the smoother the product becomes after sanding with such sandpaper. Typically this marking is indicated on the packaging.

It is advisable to buy several types of papers at once for sanding wood. Coarse-grain paper is considered to be paper that is marked with a number from 40 to 80; it is suitable for rough processing. The markings for medium-grained sandpaper contain numbers from 100 to 150, and the markings for fine-grained sandpaper contain numbers in the range from 180 to 220.

Please note!
You can find GOST markings with the letter M. It means fine-grained sandpaper.

In addition, sandpapers come with closed or open sanding. The first ones are very densely covered with grain – that is, their abrasive is more effective and efficient. And on the basis of open-fill sandpaper there are significantly fewer grains (usually their share is no more than 60% of the entire surface of the canvas), so it is not so effective.

Thus, closed sandpaper is suitable for hard surfaces, while open sandpaper is suitable for more pliable and soft surfaces.

Painting kitchen cabinets

Having bought a kitchen set, we have been enjoying our new fashionable purchase for a number of years. But over the years, she loses her attractiveness, ages, becomes dull and unfashionable. An irresistible desire appears to change something in the environment, update or buy something new.

There is no need to immediately throw away old furniture and buy new ones, spending a lot of money on it. After all, it is much easier to transform the appearance of existing cabinets by changing their doors and, thus, transforming and updating their appearance.

You can quite successfully repaint the cabinets with your own hands, and in such a way that they cannot be distinguished from factory ones. It is important to very carefully sand the surface of cabinets that will be repainted, to remove dust and remnants of old paint and varnish.

Before starting work, you need to select the desired paint color. In addition, the choice is influenced by the practical properties of the material: the paint must be wear-resistant, that is, not afraid of the influence of moisture and detergents.

To make your kitchen cabinets look bright and cheerful, you need to choose a high-gloss paint. You need to paint carefully so that drips and brush strokes are not visible.

Alkyd gloss paint will satisfy these requirements. It is diluted with organic solvents and applied with a special painting sponge.

Before painting the kitchen cabinet, the doors are removed from their hinges, cleaned of dirt using soda or other detergents, and then thoroughly sanded with coarse-grained sandpaper, gradually moving to fine-grained sandpaper. The cleaned and sanded surface should have a uniform matte color. For better results, you can use a special grinding machine.

The sanded surface is wiped with a damp cloth and an alkyd primer is applied with a roller.

After the primer has dried, apply the first thin coat of paint using a roller or brush. The next, main layer of paint is already applied with a special paint pad. The paint is distributed over the surface immediately in longitudinal and then transverse strokes. You cannot put pressure on the pad; you need to add enough paint to one stroke so that it is enough to distribute from one edge to the other.

If you need to apply another layer of paint, then you need to apply it with a new paint pad, or use an old one, after washing it immediately in a solvent, and then in any detergent.

When the doors are painted and dry, new handles are mounted on them, a huge selection of which can be found in any hardware store that match the color and match the interior of the kitchen.

To make your kitchen design original and fashionable, you can install glass shelves inside the cabinets and install lighting. You can also install lighting under wall cabinets for additional illumination of the work surface.

Thus, old furniture, transformed beyond recognition into fashionable and original, thanks to your imagination and hard work, will serve you for many more years.

Painting a chipboard cabinet

Today, furniture stores are filled with inexpensive furniture made from materials alternative to wood. Unfortunately, it does not always meet the growing demands of consumers. Then we have to rely on the resourcefulness and imagination of the owners of such furniture, who can change the appearance of an inexpensive cabinet beyond recognition, not only with the help of additional accessories, but also by painting the chipboard cabinet in a different color, which can visually make the furniture expensive and stylish.

To bring your planned work to life, first of all, you need to stock up on the necessary tools and materials. For example, to paint a cabinet made of chipboard, you need to know that this material does not absorb paint well and requires additional processing, which leads to additional waste of time and material.

To paint a chipboard cabinet you will need:

  • paint of the desired color;
  • roller or brush for applying a layer of paint;
  • paklevka;
  • sandpaper;
  • hair dryer for drying painted surfaces.

Having all the listed materials and tools, you can be sure that the work will be completed quickly and efficiently.

First of all, you need to disassemble the cabinet down to the smallest parts, each of which will need to be painted so that they do not stand out against the general background. Before you begin, you need to have an idea of ​​what you want the result to be so that the appearance of the painted cabinet does not come as a complete unpleasant surprise.

If the surface of the cabinet has been previously painted, then the old paint must be removed using sandpaper, which will also make the surface even and smooth, which will facilitate easy and quick application of paint.

Experimenting with the color of paint applied to the main elements of the cabinet will become an original design solution. Contacting professional designers costs a lot of money, while you can do the necessary work yourself, following all the rules and recommendations set out in this article.

A competent approach will help you achieve your goals, and if the experiment is unsuccessful, you can always correct the situation by repainting the cabinet in a different color.

Wall grinding technology

At the first stage, use a spatula to go over the entire surface of the wall. Remove tubercles, all kinds of protrusions, and swellings. If you find large depressions or pits, fill them with putty, do not try to remove them by sanding.

Start sanding only on a completely dry surface.

High-quality lighting should be installed on one side at an angle to the surface. Its position must not be changed during the entire grinding cycle.

The second stage involves sanding the surface with coarse sandpaper or sanding mesh. The consumable material is attached to the sanding block.

Surface grinding is carried out from top to bottom, processing small areas with rotational movements. The size of the plot should not exceed 1×1 m.

It is better to grind from top to bottom in strips no wider than 1 m. Hand movements when grinding are made in a circle, but you can also move up and down or left and right.

Do not press hard on the tool or grind in one place for a long time. You can erase the entire layer of putty.

After going over the entire surface with a coarse abrasive, continue sanding with fine sandpaper. When using finer sanding material, be sure to bring the light source as close to the wall as possible.

Finish grinding is performed with less sweeping movements and with less pressure on the tool.

Hard-to-reach places are sanded using sanding sponges or the old-fashioned method of sandpaper folded in several layers.

Never use a sandpaper to sand corners or hard-to-reach areas. You will only ruin the surface.

Select the correct grit size of consumables. Properly selected sandpaper should not leave deep scratches on the plaster.

If the abrasive material causes scratches, select finer sandpaper. Under the wallpaper, minor scratches are allowed on the polished surface after puttying. But before painting, the surface of the walls must be absolutely flat. Read how to prepare a wall for painting.

The grinding process is labor intensive and requires considerable effort to complete. It can be mechanized if you use a special grinding machine. Grinding machines are available that can be connected to a vacuum cleaner, which makes the grinding process virtually dust-free.

Do not use belt sanders. They are suitable for working with wood. An eccentric or orbital sander will work.

Although the use of a grinding machine speeds up the grinding process, without special skills it is very difficult for a novice builder to obtain a high-quality sanded surface.

It is necessary to feel the tool not only to move it correctly, but also to regulate the force of pressing the tool on the grinding plane. And such a tool is quite expensive.

After sanding, remove the dust layer, do a wet cleaning and check the surface quality. Before finishing, a layer of primer must be applied.

The best way to sand wood

A wide variety of tools can be used to process wood. In many workshops and garages you can find almost everything you need to carry out such work. There are several tools that are the answer to the question of how to sand wood:

  1. Drill.
  2. Bulgarian.
  3. Belt sander.
  4. Surface grinder.

Sandpaper: types of grit - how to sand correctly

The grinder has become quite widespread. It is a universal tool; grinding requires a special flap-type attachment. Other features of the process include the following points:

  1. To make the attachment you will need pieces of sandpaper. They must be secured to a rigid base.
  2. There are wheels on sale with different levels of hardness, each suitable for a specific case. An example is the use of a No. 40 wheel to remove paintwork. To give smoothness, use a wheel with grain No. 120.

Sandpaper: types of grit - how to sand correctly

Another common question is how to sand wood when using a drill. Such a tool can be equipped with a special attachment, which has a pin for the cartridge in the central part. Among the features of using such a tool, we note the following points:

  1. All circles have a small diameter, the largest is 125 mm.
  2. Different grain sizes also allow for various types of work: from roughing to finishing.

There are several types of drill wheels. Most have a hard base, some have a rubber base. An adhesive substance, as well as various Velcro, can be used to adhere the sandpaper to the base. By increasing the flexibility of the disk, the processing quality can be improved.

You can also find a surface grinder on sale. This mechanism is characterized by the fact that the fixed sandpaper quickly performs a reciprocating movement. Many abrasive attachments are designed so that the sandpaper can be quickly replaced if necessary.

Sandpaper: types of grit - how to sand correctly

The belt sander is characterized by the highest productivity. It can be used to process a wide variety of wood. The main disadvantage is the high cost, since professional equipment in this category costs 7,000 rubles or more. A special attachment can be used as a working belt, which can have a different grain size.