Making a binding
For binding we will need two cardboards. They should be a few millimeters larger on each side than the trimmed book block. Binding cardboard can be bought in art stores (though they sell out quickly there), or you can take apart an archival folder. That’s what I did. Strictly speaking, these cardboard boxes were left over from one of my previous bindings.
The binding is ready!
Making soft binding
The embroidered text block should be laid flat on the board and the edges carefully aligned with the ruler. Place a blank piece of book-sized paper at the top and bottom of the text block.
The edges of these sheets, which serve as drafts, are aligned with a ruler. Carefully place a second board on top of the text block, making sure that there is no movement of individual parts or sheets.
After making sure that the text block lies evenly between the boards, we clamp the structure with clamps. The text block is placed between the boards so that about half a centimeter of the spine is free, outside the boards.
Using a glue gun, apply a thick layer of glue to the spine. The layer thickness should be from two to three millimeters.
The layer of glue should be uniform, so it should be quickly leveled either with the gun itself or with a piece of flat plastic. This operation should be carried out quickly so that the glue does not have time to set.
The next stage is preparing the cover. First, the thickness of the spine of the text block is measured.
From the center line of the cover sheet, place left and right along half the measured thickness of the spine. Draw two straight lines parallel to the center line.
Add another centimeter on each side. Place a ruler on the resulting lines and carefully bend the cover sheet.
To secure, carefully run the blunt side of the scissors along the fold line several times. After the glue has dried, carefully separate the draft sheets.
Insert the glued text block into the cover and secure with staples. Place the iron with the working surface facing up, turn it on and warm it up well.
Heat the spine evenly until the cover is securely glued to it. The final operation is trimming the cover on three sides to fit the text block format.
How to get a seal. sealing sample
As mentioned above, the question of how to seal the work record book can be answered on the basis of clause. 4 clause 41 of the rules for maintaining and storing work books. It must be fastened in one of the following ways:
- wax seal;
In practice, sealing with a wax seal is rarely used, since a number of problems can arise:
- It is necessary to make a special seal, most often made of brass.
- It is necessary to purchase sealing wax and kindle it.
- Fragility of the seal. Sealing wax tends to deteriorate over time.
- The sheets located under the seal itself will have an uneven surface, which can lead to sloppiness when filling out the magazine.
The most commonly used sealing is a paper seal using a management certification. But this method is also incorrect, since the seal must comply with the parameters according to GOST 31282-2004.
The most convenient way of filling is to use a film filling. Unique marks are applied to the surface of such a carrier; if the customer wishes, it is possible to apply corresponding logos, etc. If you try to peel off such a seal, a corresponding record will appear on it, which will indicate unauthorized opening.
You can view a sample of the seal here: Sample of the seal of the book of accounting for the movement of work records.
The book for recording the movement of work books must be stitched and its pages numbered. Moreover, the specified document must be sealed with either a wax seal or a seal.
How to use the booklet maker correctly
Currently, sellers offer a huge number of different models of booklet makers. Therefore, after making a purchase, it is advisable to carefully study the instructions on how to use the booklet maker step by step. But the general approximate principles of operation are the same for all machines. They include several stages:
- Paper preparation. The sheets must be folded in order. Prepare the cover parts. If there is a lot of paper for a particular type of booklet maker, then you need to divide it into piles.
- Perforation. The paper must be placed in a special receptacle and pressed on the handle. The sheets and cover are punched separately.
- Selection of springs. You need to select it so that its size is sufficient to cover all the sheets, and there is a small margin left. If you don’t know how to stitch correctly, and plan to add or remove sheets after stitching, you should opt for a plastic spring.
- Weave. Install the spring, open it and place the pre-punched sheets, followed by the cover. Once everything is ready, the spring is closed.
Works sewn using a booklet maker look presentable and have a long service life with active use. And how to use a booklet maker on a plastic spring can always be found in the instructions. And in order to choose the correct spring diameter, you can familiarize yourself with the table that is in the instructions for the unit.
How to number sheets
A special form is always glued to the back of any book or magazine, on which it will be written when it has been stitched and numbered by the clerk, signed and sealed. Usually the numbering itself does not cause difficulties. The main thing is to remember some details:
- only Arabic numbers are used;
- the use of Russian letters is allowed;
- the sheet number is written so as not to affect the text;
- the number is usually indicated at the bottom in the middle or closer to the edge farthest from the binding, but some organizations have different rules;
- if there is no space on the sheet, numbering on the back of the document is allowed;
- if a letter that arrived in an envelope is filed in a folder, the envelope is numbered first, and then its contents;
- when appendices to cases represent a large volume of documents, they are packaged in a separate volume and numbered separately;
- if there are several volumes in a case, then each volume will have its own numbering;
- checks and other attachments are not numbered, but are only indicated in the inventory.
Double-sided documents in a folder are numbered only on one side, namely the front. And when numbering applications, a continuous system is used, in which the document number corresponds to the application number, but differs from it by the presence of a letter. For example, the document itself is No. 34, then the appendix to it is indicated as No. 34 a.
How to stitch and number a house book?
You may be interested in: A municipal order is… Concept, legal definition, legislative framework and placement conditions
The fact is that BTI employees (they are authorized to fill out this document) require homeowners to bring them a ready-made house book. Accordingly, it must be numbered and stitched in accordance with the requirements of Russian legislation.
Let’s look at how to flash a house book (you can see a sample in the photo and video in the article):
- The sheets of the document are numbered in order. As a rule, you need to use the same pen filled with black ink.
- Where can I flash the house book? This can also be done at home. The sheets are punched in two places with a hard and sharp tool. For example, an awl. Then a coarse thread is threaded through these holes several times. With its help, the document is laced.
- In the photo of stitched house books you can see how the two ends of the threaded thread are tied together. After this, the resulting “tails” are glued with a small square of white paper.
- This glued square of paper is handwritten with “numbered and stitched.” Next, the number of pages of the document is indicated both in numbers and in words.
- At the end of the procedure, officials certify this document.
How to stitch original documents with thread?
Securities must be stapled in accordance with GOST R61141-98 “Office work and archiving.” The nuances of registration are enshrined in the Order of the Federal Archive of January 23, 2009 No. 76.
The firmware procedure is considered mandatory for the following categories of documents:
Other documentation that is important for the owner, the company and its counterparties may also be filed.
The classic firmware scheme requires tools to work. You will need covers (standard, non-standard or archival), a hole punch, stationery glue, sharp scissors, a certification sheet, threads, an awl or needles, ropes or twine. The threads must be strong, thick and wear-resistant.
The most common filing methods:
- Two holes is the most popular scheme. The distance between the holes is at least 5 centimeters. In this case, the knot should be on the front side.
- Three holes. With this scheme, the holes must be placed at the same distance from each other and to the edges of the sheet. Create a figure eight using threads by connecting both ends of the thread in the middle on the inside of the sheet.
- Four holes – the scheme resembles the previous version, only the “eight” is now double. The tail remains at the level of the second puncture on the back side.
- Five holes is the most reliable method, used for extremely important documents. It consists of two “figure eights” located one above the other.
How to make a workbook with your own hands?
You can make a notebook with a small number of sheets (up to 10-12) in 2 ways:
- Carefully fold the required number of sheets in half.
- Open the pages in the middle and staple along the fold line.
Usually 2 paper clips are enough, but if the page length exceeds half an A4 sheet, place paper clips at a distance of 5-10 cm between them. The greater the thickness and amount of paper, the larger the paper clips should be.
- Carefully fold the sheets in half.
- Mark with a pencil several pairs of future holes for stitching (the distance between the punctures is 1-3 cm).
- Punch holes with an awl at the marked points (make sure that the hole does not exceed the diameter of the stitching needle – 1-2 mm).
- For thin paper, prepare a needle with a single thread, for thick paper – with a double thread. There is no need to make a knot at the end of the thread.
Sew the pages through the holes along the fold using a simple needle-first stitch, starting the first stitch from the outside (leave the end of the thread hanging 5-10 cm).
The ends of the thread after stitching should be on the outside of the notebook.
- After everything is stitched, pull both ends of the thread and tie it with a strong knot.
If you need a thick notebook with many pages, the usual binding technique is suitable, which is done in two ways:
- Make booklet blanks (each of 3-5 sheets folded in half; the thicker the paper, the fewer sheets). All books are individually stitched with threads using the above method. Then the blanks are sewn together or glued together.
- Method of simultaneously stitching blank books and fastening them together with one continuous thread:
- Sew the first piece from the bottom up.
- Without cutting the thread or tying a knot, move on to the second piece, only you will sew it from top to bottom, catching the outer stitches of the first booklet with the needle along the seam.
- Having reached the bottom, proceed to the third piece, stitching it like the first (from bottom to top), while simultaneously picking up the stitches of the second book. Once finished, move on to the next workpiece.
- When sewing, pull the thread tighter so that the pages do not dangle and the books fit snugly together.
- Having sewn the last piece, fasten the ends of the thread together with a knot.
If you take colored sheets rather than white sheets, you will get an original notebook with multi-colored sections. You can also experiment with the texture and thickness of the paper. At the end of the work, check that the edges of the resulting book are even. It is most convenient to cut a curved edge using a utility knife along a ruler.
Book using origami technique
Step 1. We need to cut a sheet of paper horizontally into 3 equal parts. The height of each strip is the desired height of our book.
Step 2. Form the pages of the book. To do this, fold a strip of paper in half, marking the middle of the sheet with the fold. Straighten the paper. Now you need to divide each half of the strip into 3 equal parts. Do this using a ruler. Make fixed folds in the shape of an accordion – you should get 6 pages. Do the same with the remaining strips.
Step 3. We connect our blanks. To do this, we put the edge of one workpiece into the fold of another. For fixation we use glue – a pencil. In the same way we add the third blank. You can make any number of book blanks and connect them into one large accordion. The pages of the book are ready.
Step 4. Making the cover for the book. Take a sheet of paper and fold it horizontally. Straighten the sheet. We bend the upper and lower edges of the sheet towards the middle, retreating a few millimeters from the central fold. We have a blank for the cover – now we need to mark and make folds in the places that settle – the cover for the first page, the fold of the book, the cover for the last page.
First, place the first page of the book in the resulting tunnel and mark with a pencil where the page ends. Make a fold according to the mark. We make one more fold before the beginning of the spine. We insert the blank pages to calculate the width of the spine. We make part of the cover for the last page by analogy with the first. The first and last pages of the book are fixed by the cover.
Our book with cover is ready. It can be decorated with drawings or stickers.
DIY book binding
On Wednesday, June 8th, I found an intermediary between me and the carrier. The asking price is $400 to get from Zaporozhye to Kherson. On Friday the 10th there was supposed to be a departure at 10 am.
To leave, drivers submit documents containing the personal data of the driver and passengers, where these drivers spend the night at the collection point to take a turn in the convoy. The column was formed from 50 vehicles. Different cars, cars, trucks, sprints.
I planned to collect everything I needed on Thursday 9th.
At 8 am on Thursday, the intermediary calls me and says:
– Departure is at 10 am today, you have 10 minutes.
I managed to pack a bag only from things. 2 pairs of sneakers, 2 pairs of jeans, 3 T-shirts, 1 shirt, several pairs of socks and underpants, comb, deodorant, perfume and exercise. The wallet contained only 6,000 UAH, a passport (ID card) and a Privat24 bank card, and I lost the Ukrsib bank card a couple of days before departure.
I use two banks, Ukrsib and Privat24. On Privat24 I had 66k UAH, on Ukrsib about 300k (7k bucks and 100k UAH). I never received access to Ukrsib Bank, but more on that later. I don’t know what the exchange rate is now, look in the calculator if you’re interested.
I took a taxi to the meeting place. There, a mediator and a family of a man, a woman and a child were waiting for me (they were not registered). By the way, they paid $700 per person upon arrival. In case of questions, the intermediary asked me to say that I paid a deposit of $300, and upon arrival I must pay another $400.
The intermediary brought us to the place where the column is being formed. He indicated the car we would drive in (a Voltz station wagon) and introduced us to the driver (a woman).
At the collection point, the police check lists, personal data and bags. The police did not ask us for what purpose we were going.
When it was our turn to be part of the first column, something went wrong and we handed over the car and ours was moved to the second column, which means that at 10 am we are not going anywhere. Columns are allowed in with the permission of the military.
The first column left at 11 am. Since there were battles in the gray zone (between Zaporozhye and Vasilyevka), the first column was not allowed in. Because of this, our convoy left only at 16:00 in the evening.
Separately about the checkpoints that the military asks and checks.
On the first Ukrainian. at the checkpoint, they asked me for my passport, then they asked where I was going and why. I said that I was going to Kherson to pick up my grandmother. He wished him a safe journey.
At the second post, only the driver was checked.
At the third post, no one was checked, as fighting began again in the gray zone. We were returned to the second checkpoint, where we waited for about an hour. When we arrived at the third checkpoint, our documents were not checked. Arriving at the fourth, they only checked the documents. Things weren’t checked.
Next is the path through the gray zone. The most dangerous place. It can arrive here at any moment. We drove past burning houses that had been hit by shells half an hour earlier. There is a traffic jam in the gray zone. Since the bridge was destroyed, we drove through the off-road and met a convoy from Kherson. It was a bit scary. Everything worked out well and after about 20 minutes we arrived at the first Russian checkpoint, where we met the first column, which we did not allow through.
I would like to note that if you have a child in the car, Russian and Ukrainian soldiers will not detain you. And if you also have a cat in your arms, then you are in chocolate)
It was already 19 pm and the Russians refused passage. An hour later they gave the go-ahead for cars carrying children under 10 years of age to pass. Although there were older children, they were also allowed through. The rest of the cars, about 300 people, stayed overnight in the cars.
The Russian checkpoint checked documents and bags. They asked where we were going. We spoke the truth. The family said to Russia to visit relatives, I said that I was going to Crimea.
It was already 8 pm and the curfew had begun in Vasilyevka. We had to look for a place in the yards to spend the night in the car. The same car stopped near us. We stopped near a house where there was a local girl who offered to spend the night for free in an empty two-room apartment.
I had no food all the way. My family fed me sandwiches and offered me everything they had. In the apartment itself, the people from the second car cooked up pasta and stew, and the locals got us fresh bread and 3 liters of beer. We ate, drank and got to know each other. Everyone shared their stories of this war.
The family that was traveling with me were refugees from Donetsk. In 2022 they left for Kharkov and tried to start a new life. Because of the Northern Military District, they moved to the Dnieper, and from there to Zaporozhye.
The second car drove all over Ukraine. The girl lost her grandfather, and her sister lost her child. The death of her grandfather and child was witnessed by her sister, after which she lost her mind.
In the morning we drove along the highway towards Energodar. At the checkpoint, a soldier ran into me a little, since I didn’t have a registration document with me, and my passport only showed my city of birth – Lugansk region, Lisichansk. He asked if I had tattoos, he said no, he didn’t check. They asked about tattoos one more time on the way to Crimea. But everything went well. Then there were 100,500 Russian checkpoints; they let us through everywhere in a minute, or even less. So we got to Kherson at about 3 o’clock in the afternoon.
Kherson is the nineties. Everyone sells what they can, only cash decides. Although they say that there is a bi-currency, supposedly there are both UAH and rubles, but in fact, payment is made in UAH everywhere. I even found a kiosk where I could pay in Ukrainian. card. There are no hotels, no hostels, Ukrainian. There are no telecom operators. The people who were involved in transportation provided us with housing. They took 500 UAH for the apartment. In Kherson, I realized that I was completely screwed.
To pay for transportation, I had to pay $400, if in UAH then 15k at the rate of 37.5 UAH per dollar. The driver advised me to delete bank applications, saying they might take away my phone and all that. Which is what I did when entering the uncontrolled area. It was a huge mistake. Since there is no connection in Kherson, I could not receive an SMS to go to my bank and pay. They gave me Wi-Fi, I wrote to a friend and asked him to help me out. Helped me out. But what to do next?
All I had in cash was:
– 2500 UAH for the trip to Crimea.
– 1000 UAH
– 2000 rubles. Which I exchanged with the locals, giving them 1200 UAH.
I didn’t know what to do next. I had hope that I could somehow withdraw rubles through Ukrainian. card in Crimea and I was given it in vain.
In the morning, a man came to pick us up, who rented out the apartment and he took us to Crimea. There was also a second car, the driver was a girl. They were both a couple, wife or not, I don’t know, I don’t think it matters at all)
But we still need to meet such girls. These are the type of people who make money on everything they can. My family and I admitted to each other that we are already tired of them, they are too energetic 🙂
There were another 100,500 checkpoints on the road to Crimea. Everything is simple here. They showed us the documents and asked where and why. We didn’t lie. I said that I want to start a new life, a family with relatives. I was asked a couple of times what I work for. They say that the country needs good programmers. I’m just an average front, but I think I’ll get somewhere)
We spent about 5 hours at the border with Crimea. 2 hours before entering the checkpoint, and then some kind of filtration or whatever you call it. They call according to lists, they don’t shout their names particularly loudly, so all the men stood in the sun and waited. By the way, the police took one of them after filtering. I was among the last.
They asked who I was, for my parents and relatives. They asked who I work for and where. They asked for my phone number and while I was talking about myself, he looked at my photos). By the way, one of the queue said that his Teflon was connected to something there. And they don’t need any passwords. They checked all his social media. activity and was charged for some activity that he no longer remembered. But everything went ok.
There was another soldier in the room. He printed out a 19th century Russian poem about Slavic brotherhood. Standing, he read it to me and his friend.
He and I.
He: Well, really, isn’t it a beautiful verse?
Me: Yes, beautiful.
Him: Well, why the hell is all this then?
Me: I don’t know, no one asked us.
He: You’re going to your fucking Poles, who are quarreling us.
Me: I’m going to Crimea
the guy came out.
The soldiers were my age – but I can say that they looked great). About the verse and the dialogue, it’s the honest truth, I fucking swear.
After filtering, I was given a document and my passport. By the way, at the checkpoint they asked if I served. I said that I was unfit because they had 2 operations here and there. I actually had operations, but I bought a certificate of unfitness in peacetime for $900.
I was brought to Simferopol. I said goodbye to that family and thanked them. They helped and supported me a lot, they even tried to give me money, but I refused. I found the nearest exchanger where I exchanged the remaining 1k UAH.
In total I had about 3,400 rubles. I bought a SIM card for 500 rubles to inform my family and friend that I am alive 🙂
I was very tired, I didn’t understand what to do next and I also got sick.
The main question is how can I get my money.
I wrote to Privat24 bank support and said that my phone was lost and I want to change the number. I gave the number to my friend. I had to answer all sorts of questions for authorization and take a photo with my passport. Communication with the operator was always covered up due to the threat of an airstrike in Ukraine and the operator left.
The system refused me a photo 2 times. I was sitting alone, I don’t know where, hungry and tired, and I’m trying to authorize for the third time. After each authorization, the operator sends a link and password to my friend’s number where I need to take a photo.
– Holy shit, if you exist, please send me a photo.
God exists 🙂
Now my friend had access to my money. He also helped me find the nearest cheap one. I pay 600 rubles a day. The next day, that is, today (June 12), I started looking for options on how to transfer money to my neighbor’s Mir card in the hostel so that she could withdraw it. As a result, a friend found options through crypto. Thus, I was able to withdraw another 13,500 rubles, 2k of which I gave to the woman who gave her card as a token of gratitude. Now I have about 10k rubles.
Today we celebrated Russia Day, which means tomorrow is a day off and banks are closed. I’ll wait until Tuesday to make myself a card and withdraw the rest of the money from the Privat24 card.
I don’t know what to do with Ukrsib Bank, where the rest of the money is. You can change your number only in person or by a notary, where it seems like you also need something personal. Maybe I’ll find blacksmiths. Now I’m sitting outside the hostel.
You can leave. There is a risk of sleeping in the fields. If you have children in the car you have a privilege. Bring cash and only cash.
You can export laptops 100%, no one checked them. No one checked phones at checkpoints. Never plan your travel time. It’s just luck 🙂
Next, I plan to submit some documents so that I can officially work and start looking for a job as a programmer. I can find the MB locally or remotely, but then I need equipment. By the way, in Dzhankoy you can apply for refugee status, but then you are taken to Yekaterinburg. But they help you with everything, but they will take your passport and you will not travel abroad for a year. I will remain in Crimea, I will not apply for refugee, nor will I take money from your taxes. Let those in need take advantage of this.
The only thing I worry about is money. I’m afraid that the Ukrainian They will be taken away from me as soon as they find out that I am in the Russian Federation. Acquaintances have described him as a traitor, loved ones love and worry.
Before we start learning about the master class on how to bind a book yourself at home, let’s talk about what materials and tools we will need.
First of all, for binding you will need PVA glue; it perfectly connects paper, fabric, and thick cardboard. You will also need white threads for stitching; thin wool or iris threads are perfect. If there are none, take a thin white rope.
Thick gauze or piece of cotton fabric to create a tight, strong spine.
Cardboard of any color to strengthen the cover. Choose a very dense material so that it barely bends. It can be difficult to purchase one, but it can be replaced. To do this, glue 2-3 sheets of cardboard together.
To cover the cover, you can use either colored paper or fabric: choose according to your taste or depending on the design of the book. You can also print the image on paper that is not too thick.
The spine cover is a small cloth roller. To understand what we’re talking about, look at the spine of a regular hardcover book. You can buy one in craft stores or online. You can replace the material with dense canvas. In general, a captal is a decorative detail that covers the unsightly spine and insides of a book, so you can do without it.
Regulations governing the binding of documents
The main document regulating the rules for stitching documents in Russia are the regulations of the Federal Archive, established by Order No. 76 dated December 23, 2009. The rules are also spelled out in other regulations:
- order of the Federal Tax Service dated January 25, 2022 under number No. ММВ-7-6/25, where the mandatory firmware of documents submitted for reporting was cancelled, although many services today prefer to accept firmware rather than separate sheets;
- GOST R 51141-98 “Office work and archiving”, which regulates many aspects of office work;
- order of the Ministry of the Russian Federation for Taxes and Duties, issued on April 18, 2003 under number BG-3-09/198 “On methodological explanations on the procedure for filling out certain forms of documents used for state registration of a legal entity”;
- instructions of the Central Bank of Russia – order dated December 7, 1992 N 02-213 “On approval of the Instructions for office work in the Central Bank of the Russian Federation” as amended as of September 15, 1997.
In addition, the firmware of documents depends on the area to which they belong. Incoming and outgoing documentation is filed completely differently than tax reports or paperwork from the accounting department. Therefore, each area has its own rules and documents indicating how to correctly and what exactly needs to be stitched, submitted for reporting and deposited in the archive.
It would seem that what could be easier than printing a book? But there are several important points here. First, you need to choose the right paper. All paper that is produced industrially at pulp and paper mills has a clearly defined fiber direction. The vast majority of readers have access to only printers that can print on sheets no larger than A4.
Almost all paper of this size (I tried about 20 brands) has the direction of the grain along the long side (short-to-short-side bends much worse than long-to-long). Try it yourself and you will immediately understand what we are talking about. We ideally want the fibers to be along the short side.
Unfortunately, the packaging of ordinary office paper is not marked for this parameter. Of those 20 brands, all were “inappropriate.” It is put in quotes because the result does not deteriorate much, and I believe that if you do not have the necessary paper, then there is no point in worrying and printing on the one that you have.
Secondly, the pages on the book sheets are not in order.
We will make a classic book. This means that in each notebook of the book block we will have 16 A5 pages – 4 A4 sheets printed on both sides and folded in half.
We start by creating a layout. I used OpenOffice Writer (hereinafter referred to as OOW). We select the desired typeface and font size, set the margins, and number the pages. Please note that the size should be larger than desired. A little later it will become clear why. Save and export to PDF.
OOW cannot print pages in random order. That is, if you set the page numbers 16 and 1, then it will print the first page first, and then the sixteenth. But Foxit Reader, which I use to view and work with PDF, does everything as it should. In the printer settings, select landscape sheet orientation, and in the FoxitReader print settings, select two pages on one sheet. This is where the increased font size comes in handy, because the actual page size will decrease.
Every two lines indicate the order in which the pages of one notebook are printed. First we print one side (8 pages), then we turn the paper over and print the second side. You can borrow a calculator from me.
Printing more than one notebook at a time can be risky. First you need to understand the paper feeding features of a particular printer. And then we’ll have to work with notebooks. So printing one notebook at a time is our choice.
Step-by-step instructions for this procedure
Before stapling documents, you must remove all paper clips and staples from the stapler. Organize by date or importance and number each sheet of the document. If the resulting file consists of many sheets, then you can join the documents with special paper clips and start stitching.
Prepare the following tools and materials
- Threads. It is better to use nylon ones.
- Needle. Select the size depending on the thickness of the documents being stapled.
- Paper glue.
- A sheet of blank paper.
- Paper, cardboard binder.
- Remove paper clips and staples from the document.
- Lay the sheets neatly and evenly, check the numbering for reliability.
- Depending on the thickness of the resulting bundle, take an awl or a needle and, stepping back from the edge, make at least 3 through holes. The holes should be in a row, vertical to the edge of the paper, at a distance of 2.5-3 centimeters from each other friend. The middle hole should be centered.
- Depending on the thickness of the resulting stack of papers, take a thread 70-80 centimeters long.
- Insert the needle from the bottom of the back of the document into the central hole.
- Pass from above into the uppermost hole.
- Then through the back of the document to the very bottom.
- We return to the central one through the front side.
- After stitching like this, the thread will be on the back side. If you are stitching a document with a large number of sheets, then this manipulation should be carried out several times to secure them.
- Tie a knot on the back. The remainder should be at least 8 centimeters long.
- Glue a piece of paper in the form of a rectangle onto the resulting knot. On which the inscription is made in advance: “Lapped and numbered.____ sheets Director____Last name I. O.”. If the manager’s position is different, it is indicated accordingly according to the documentation.
- A signature and seal are placed on the bound document, the specified sheet of paper. Part of the signature and seal must be on a piece of paper and on the back of the document.
It should be said that if you need to stitch a larger number of sheets at the same time, you need to make at least 4 holes. This will give stability and reliability when storing the bound document.
A simplified method for flashing documents is given in this video instruction:
Step-by-step instructions and firmware diagrams for 3 and 4 holes
As a standard, magazines and other documents of lesser importance are sewn together in three punctures using standard threads, PVA glue and an awl. A detailed step-by-step diagram of 3-hole firmware is as follows:
A detailed step-by-step diagram of 3-hole firmware is as follows:
- Step 1. The first movement of the needle should be through (so that the eye is closer to the back and the end of the needle is closer to the front).
- Step 2. The second puncture must be made from the front side, moving closer to the edges of the sheet.
- Step 3. The needle should again enter the third puncture from the reverse side. If you insert the needle into the original hole again, the pattern will be considered complete.
Scheme for flashing documents with 3 holes:
Scheme for flashing documents with 4 holes:
Then you need to tie a knot and leave at least 7 centimeters of thread.
The certification sheet must have a rectangle size of 6×4 centimeters. It needs to be glued to the knot and signed.
The sheets must be numbered in the order of filing, using Arabic numerals and starting with “one”. The magazines are numbered and stitched according to a standard scheme, but difficulties arise when preparing other documents.
- When stitching a letter, the envelope is first numbered, and only then its contents.
- When numbering drawings, diagrams and other graphic materials that occupy the entire sheet or should not have interfering marks that distort the meaning, the numbering must be placed on the reverse side of the sheet.
As a standard, the number is placed in the upper right corner. Numbering is not needed for the inventory.
Assembling the book block
Here’s what we got:
In my case, this is 8 notebooks.
There are many ways to make binding and stitching a book block; I will talk about those that I use myself.
Let’s get started.
First you need to bend the notebooks in half. This is where sheets with the correct direction of the fibers would be especially useful to us. You can bend each sheet separately, or you can fold the entire notebook (4 sheets). I prefer the second option. It seems to me that this way the notebook turns out to be more complete. The spoon in the previous photo was not left over from lunch – it is very convenient for it to press the fold line.
It doesn’t matter which notebook (first or last) to start with. The main thing is not to confuse their order. You need to pay close attention to page numbers. Otherwise you will have to redo it. I would like to immediately draw your attention to the fact that until the very moment of gluing the book block together, we can change whatever we want. Here you can take a break and relax a little. Because sewing the block is a very important part of assembling the book.
Let’s sew! For sewing I use embroidery thread. They are durable, obedient, colorful, quite thick and very easy to find. Have you ever seen a book sewn with lilac thread? I didn’t see it either. That’s why we take the bright one. Individuality is one of the reasons to do all this.
The tapes are sheathed on the outside.
We fix the block so that the edge protrudes slightly. We coat it with PVA glue (stationery glue is quite suitable). You need very little glue, just enough so that it penetrates slightly between the notebooks. And we press it under a weight so that the notebooks stick together. There is no need to tighten too much.
Let everything dry.
Do-it-yourself hardcover book – step-by-step instructions
First of all, you need to make four solid blocks. We divide 32 sheets of paper (tracing paper) into four parts, eight sheets in each. Carefully align the sheets in each pack, and carefully bend each pack in half.
Run your fingers along the fold to secure it. Unfold all four stacks and turn them over.
Using a long-arm stapler, staple the eight-page stack along the fold line. If you don’t have a long-arm stapler, you can use a regular stapler.
If using a standard stapler, pages should be stapled on both the outside and inside. Cut a piece of fabric equal in size to the height of the sheet.
When choosing fabric for bookbinding, you need to keep in mind that the fabric should be dense and thick. Use a large paper clip or rubber band to secure the stacked sheets of paper. Place the stack vertically on its side and apply glue to the top side.
When applying glue, you must carefully ensure that it does not get inside, between the sheets.
Attach a cut piece of fabric to the side. This must be done before the glue dries.
To adjust the dimensions of the stack to the size of the book, it should, if necessary, be carefully trimmed with a scalpel using a metal ruler. Place the stack on the cardboard, mark the contours on the cardboard with a marker, retreating five millimeters along each edge.
Cut out the cardboard and make several more copies like this. Separately, prepare a cardboard rectangle to fit the size of the end of the book.
Place all cardboard parts on the fabric. Mark borders 25 millimeters wide on the fabric and cut the material.
Apply glue to the cardboard and place it on the fabric – crust – end – crust. There should be equal spacing between all parts.